Preparing for application:
Step 1:
I start off each day my adding a little organic fine grain sugar to a hydrating cleanser and exfoliating my face. I do have troubled skin so I use Tretinoin, any acne cream is going to regenerate skin cells quickly, so I need to exfoliate daily to stop from getting that peely look when I apply my make-up. You'll get it no matter how much you moisturize if you need to exfoliate and haven't. I use to think applying a layer of moisturizer on top of my make up would stop the peeling. It did for about 5 minutes, messed my make up all up, and then went back to peeling. Exfoliate!! I cannot say it enough. Use sugar, its a really inexpensive and works like a charm. You can even use regular dominion sugar, the stuff you put in your coffee.
Step 2:
Because I mix the sugar with my CerVe Hydrating cleanser I make sure to tone thoroughly. I would anyway but especially to make sure every drop of sugar is removed from my skin. I use the Mario Badescu Cucumber Cleansing Lotion. It is a miracle in a bottle. No alcohol at all and fairly inexpensive. You can get a Mario Badescu regime kit with the Enzyme cleansing gel (I use this at night to get every speck of make up off), Cucumber Cleansing Lotion, Aloe Oil-free moisturizer, a kaolin face mask, and seaweed night cream for $30.00. Yes, they are travel size but the kit will last you over a month and I've haven't had to replace everything at once. I had to replace the seaweed night cream first ($20), a couple weeks later I replaced the Cucumber Cleansing Lotion ($18), and I've yet had the need to replace anything else. I do use a different cleanser in the morning though. If I used the Enzyme Cleansing Gel it comes with I'm sure I would have needed to replace that by now. I tend to have dry skin in the mornings so I use something hydrating, like CerVe. The Enzyme Cleansing Gel can be a little too drying used twice a day but is great in the evenings and get every single speck of make up off. MAJOR TANGENT!
Step 3:
After toning, I apply my medicated acne cream, Chlyndomicin. I apply a Nivea cream to my eyes while the medication dries because it has a little oil and my mother, who is 63 and only has eye wrinkles, has used it on her entire face since she was 15. That's proof enough for me. The skin under your eyes does not produce oil.
Step 4:
Apply moisturizer. I use the MB oil-free Aloe but if you are dry of skin use something with oil. If you get pimples but they aren't chronic and don't use a medicated cream use the MB acne kit and corresponding lotion. Apply what you need to hydrate your skin thoroughly enough to apply your make up. If your make up isn't quite looking right or your getting an orange peel look after applying your foundation your not hydrating enough. That's a direct paraphrase from Bobbi Brown herself.
NOW THE MAKE UP!
This is the way I do it. Just grab the items I mention for the specific look in the order that works for you, if you have one; except the highlighter.
Step 1:
Wait 2 minutes for your moisturizer to seep in if your applying immediately after preparing your skin then apply a light layer of concealer to your eye lids. Make sure it is no-crease concealer, if not, use a matte shadow a shade lighter than your skin. I use Makeup Geek's Vanilla Bean or Wet N Wild's Crème Brulee. I apply that all over the lid and slightly into the crease.
Step 2: grab a simple contouring shade I use either the crease color from L'Oreal's Cupa Joe palette or Makeup Geek's Crème Brulee (very different from WNW CB). Crème Brulee is a medium sand color and the cupa joe is a taupe color. I apply these either of these in a moon shape in the outer corner blending the least amount of color into the crease, for a light contour. You can apply a satin or lightly shimmering highlight under the brow but I leave this out sometimes for a truly fresh no make up, make up look.
Step 3-
Apply concealer under the eyes and blend out to the temple. Don't apply something too light, just light enough to cover and correct those dark circles. Apply the thinnest layer possible while still covering. I use Dream Lumi Highlighting concealer, MAC Pro Longwear in NW20, or NYX in Fair. Sometimes I need a mix of those. Using a warm finger will get you the best, most evenly thin application. Pat don't drag your finger around the under-eye then set your concealer. This is KEY! It makes everything look seamless. Use a loose translucent powder, a light press powder, or any skin tone powder. I use Physicians formula mosaic press powder. It has a white, pink, natural and several bisque colors. I take a little white and darker bisque for the perfect setting.
Step 4:
I don't apply foundation because I don't need it most of the time after I apply my concealer but if you need some coverage for blemishes (apply concealer on the blemishes, not under-eye concealer, pot concealer) or just don't feel comfortable without some coverage go for a BB cream or Tinted Moisturizer, especially because we're in the Spring/Summer months of the year. Something lighter is better no matter how much coverage you need at this time of year. Emulsify it between your fingers and pat into your skin. After patting the first layer in, take a look and add extra wear necessary for extra coverage.
Step 5:
Lightly bronze your face. Hallows of the cheeks, forehead, temples and very lightly around the jaw line using a matte bronzer. I use NYC Sunny Bronzer.
Step 6:
Apply a matte peachy/coral blush. Peach complements almost everyone. If your complexion is dark apply something more bright orange, it'll come out peachy/coraly. Apply too the apples of your cheeks in little circles then drawn back to the temple. Once at the temple blend down to the bronzer to remove any harsh lines. This will give you such a radiant glow.
Step 7:
Grab your highlighter. Apply a pink-brown bronzer along the top line of the blush with a fan brush or any precise applicator blush. If your using a fan brush, after applying to both cheeks go back and flick the product you've apply downward, slightly. If your not using a fan brush grab any face brush and blend lightly from the top to the center of your blush.
Step 8:
Curl your lashes. Apply 2-3 coats of mascara. This is important, it'll really make your eyes pop with that shadow without any extra product.
Step 9:
Apply a peachy or pinkish nude lip gloss like NYX Maple Blondie.
You should have a really great, fresh, radiant glow but if it isn't enough apply dark shadow (for a more natural look) in your choice color to the upper lash line. If you choose liner apply to the upper outer half of your lash line, then blend out what you've applied to the inner corner for a, guaranteed, light and more natural look. You'll look amazing every time and especially naturally beautiful.
If you want to go out after work all you have to do is add a little eyeliner or more eyeliner and a more vibrant lipstick with the gloss you used before on top and your good to go. You can even add a little of a lighter shade highlighting powder to your cupids bow, bridge of your nose and center of your forehead. I use Revlon's shimmer brick, using the lightest to really glow in the evening.
Placement: Brown = bronzer. Pink = blush. Baby Pink On top of Blush = Highlighter. Pale Yellow = concealer. Grey = eye shadow contour.
